Czersk in the heart of the Tuchola Forest

Damian Brzeski
Jul 30
7 min read

You know Czersk from the ruins of the castle on the Vistula River? That's... the wrong Czersk. The real Czersk, hidden in the heart of the Tuchola Forest, remains an undiscovered gem of Pomerania.

A city with a turbulent history, surrounded by untamed nature and steeped in living tradition, surprises at every turn. Why is it worth forgetting its famous namesake and heading here? The answer awaits in this article.

Two Czersks, one true pearl of the Tuchola Forest
In the footsteps of the past – the turbulent history of Czersk, Pomerania
The heart of the city – what is worth seeing in Czersk?
In the arms of nature – the Czersk commune as a gateway to the Tuchola Forest
For active people – cycling and kayaking through the Bory Mountains
The soul of the region – the culture, folklore and flavors of the Tuchola Forest
Practical guide – how to plan a visit to Czersk?
Czersk – discover the unknown heart of Pomerania

Two Czersks, one true pearl of the Tuchola Forest

Google "attractions in Czersk" and you'll almost certainly come up with the ruins of a massive castle on the Vistula River . The problem? It's not Czersk. A digital misnomer often leads tourists to the Masovian stronghold, confusing it with a town in Pomerania.

This guide is about the other, Pomeranian Czersk. Forget about brick walls. We'll tell you about a city whose identity was carved by rustling forests, pristine lakes, and two great rivers – the Brda and the Wda.

This is the gateway to one of the most beautiful corners of Poland. It's time to discover Czersk, which has long been overshadowed by its more famous namesake. We begin our journey into the heart of the Tuchola Forest!

In the footsteps of the past – the turbulent history of Czersk, Pomerania

The history of Czersk is a ready-made script for a film: a story of belonging, fighting for one's own and rebirth, which reflects the fate of the entire Pomerania.

The Prehistory of Czersk - From the Middle Ages to the Partitions

It all began in the 10th century, when these lands joined the state of Mieszko I. In the 13th century, a thriving parish already existed here, which testifies to the growing importance of the settlement.

The peace ended in 1309 with the invasion of the Teutonic Knights . Documents from that time describe Czersk as a village with a mill, an inn, and a wood tar trade – after all, it was the heart of the forest.

Paradoxically, Czersk lost its town status – likely granted as early as 1382 – after the First Partition of Poland in 1772. The Prussians demoted it to a village. It symbolizes the fate of the entire region.

Under Prussian rule and the fight for Polishness

Nearly 150 years of partition were a time of Germanization. Czersk, however, became a stronghold of Polishness, where residents stubbornly defended their language, culture, and faith.

In the 19th century, the importance of the settlement increased again when a postal route from Berlin to Königsberg was built through here.

Return to Poland and the latest times

Freedom returned on January 29, 1920, with General Haller's Blue Army. The culmination of the residents' efforts was the regaining of city rights on July 1, 1926.

The city's importance was emphasized by the visits of its presidents – Stanisław Wojciechowski and Ignacy Mościcki.

The peace was once again shattered by war. Occupation, the change of name to "Heiderode," and repression marked a dark chapter that ended with the city's return to Poland.

The heart of the city – what is worth seeing in Czersk?

While the greatest treasures lie in the forests and waterfront, the city itself has its own charm. A stroll through the city center is a journey through history, architecture, and lush green spaces.

Architectural gem: St. Mary Magdalene Church

Its 40-meter-high tower is the first thing you notice as you approach the city. This neo-Gothic giant, built between 1910 and 1913, is truly impressive. But the real treasures lie inside.

The neo-Gothic building houses much older works. Here, you'll find a priceless Renaissance altar from 1611, by the renowned Hermann Han.

This remains of the previous wooden church. Even older are the two austere stone stoups from the 13th and 15th centuries – the oldest monuments in the city, dating back to before the Teutonic Knights' rule.

The center of life: Ostrowski Square and the urban layout

This is the beating heart of Czersk – a modern, award-winning space with a distinctive fountain featuring trout sculptures. The surrounding area is bustling with life: shops, cafes, and major institutions. It's here that festivals and concerts take place.

The green lungs of the city: Parks at the crossroads of cultures

Czersk lies on the border of three regions: the Tuchola Forest, Kociewie, and Kashubia. The names of the city's parks perfectly reflect this.

Borowiacki Park: A place full of energy. Here you'll find a skatepark, playgrounds, and sports fields. A highlight is the "One Child, One Tree" initiative, which encourages parents to plant trees for their newborns.
Kociewski Park: An oasis of peace and quiet. Perfect for a stroll among centuries-old trees and the murmur of the Czerska Struga River.
Kaszubski Park: A charming square in the center, where you can relax in the shade of an old linden alley.

In the arms of nature – the Czersk commune as a gateway to the Tuchola Forest

True magic begins just outside the city limits. The Czersk commune is the perfect base for exploring one of the largest forest complexes in Poland.

Nature reserves – treasures of the Czersk commune

Within the commune and its surroundings you will find several unique reserves.

The "Kręgi Kamienne" (Stone Circles) Reserve in Odry: An absolute hit. This is the "Pomeranian Stonehenge" – one of Europe's largest 1st- and 2nd-century Goth burial grounds . Mysterious stone circles and burial mounds create a mystical atmosphere. It's also a botanists' paradise – over 100 species of rare lichens grow on the boulders.
Reserve "Cisy nad Czerską Strugą": Protects one of the most valuable sites of the common yew in Pomerania.
Reserve "Mętne": This is a kingdom of peat bogs and rare wetland ecosystems.

The wonders of hydraulic engineering and charming lakes

Imagine a highway intersection... but for rivers. The Fojutowo Aqueduct is just that. This ingenious 19th-century structure is a two-level waterway intersection unique in Poland.

Upstream, in a brick canal, flows the Great Brda Canal, and 9 meters below, in its natural bed, flows the Czerska Struga River. A walk along the aqueduct's crown is an absolute must!

The commune is also dotted with lakes. The most popular, Lake Ostrowite , is a paradise for sunbathers and anglers. A little further north lies the mighty Lake Wdzydze , nicknamed the "Kashubian Sea" – a mecca for sailors and kayakers.

Attractions in a nutshell

Name of the Attraction	Category	Location	Key Features
Aqueduct in Fojutowo	Technical Monument	Fojutowo	A unique river crossing from the 19th century.
Stone Circles Reserve	History/Nature	Oder	Goth cemetery, rare lichens.
Church of St. Mary Magdalene	Religious Monument	Czersk	Neo-Gothic with a Renaissance altar.
Lake Ostrowite	Nature/Recreation	Ostrowite	Beach, fishing, water sports.
Bory Tucholskie National Park	Nature	The area around Chojnice	Vast forests and wildlife.

For active people – cycling and kayaking through the Bory Mountains

Boredom? Not in Czersk! This is a dream destination for active recreation enthusiasts.

On two wheels: The Kashubian Route

Are you a fan of two wheels? The Kashubian Route awaits. It's a network of over 160 km of well-maintained cycling routes.

Two main trails run through the Czersk commune:

Red Trail (approx. 55 km): Ideal for families, it leads through the heart of the Bory Forest, past lakes and charming villages.
Yellow Trail (approx. 70 km): Longer and more demanding, for the ambitious. It leads through wilder and more secluded parts of the forest.

Down the River: The Kingdom of Kayakers

The region offers trails for everyone, from novice to expert.

The Brda: A kayaking classic. Considered one of the most beautiful lowland rivers in Poland, the trail is easy and well-maintained – perfect for a multi-day trip.
Wda: The second great river of the region, equally picturesque and popular.
Czerska Struga: This is a trail for adventure lovers. Narrow, wild, and full of obstacles like fallen trees and beaver dams. It requires effort, but in return offers an unforgettable experience and a total reset.

Hiking trails: in the footsteps of history

Want to combine a walk with a history lesson? Choose the Home Army Guerrilla Trail . It leads through World War II battlefields, commemorated by plaques and monuments.

The soul of the region – the culture, folklore and flavors of the Tuchola Forest

To truly experience the Tuchola Forest, you need to listen to its legends, let yourself be carried away by the music, and taste the local specialties.

Living folklore: from legends to festivals

The Tuchola Forest whispers with legends about devils (called purtek here), giants ( stolems ) and ghosts racing in fiery carriages.

This rich tradition lives on to this day, and its best example is the International Folklore Festival "Kashubian Encounters with World Folklore" .

Every July, Czersk transforms into a vibrant, dancing stage, hosting bands from around the globe. This proves that the city is proud of its roots, yet open to the world.

Borowiacki cuisine: flavors of forest and field

Forget about diets. Borowia cuisine is simple, filling, and based on the gifts of nature. What was once "poverty cuisine" is now its greatest asset – locality, seasonality, and ecology.

You must try:

Potato soup: Thick potato soup with the aroma of dried mushrooms and smoked bacon.
Flyndze (or flendze): Crispy potato pancakes, sweet or savory.
Szandar: A type of potato cake baked with bacon.
Mushrooms: In any form – in soups, marinated, as a stuffing for yeast rolls ( mushroom buns ).

Practical guide – how to plan a visit to Czersk?

A few practical tips that will make it easier for you to organize your trip.

Access

Rail: A railway line runs through the city. A direct train from Tricity takes about 1.5 hours.
Car: Czersk is located at the intersection of provincial roads no. 237 and 240, approximately 50 km from the A1 motorway exit.

Accommodation: from agritourism to hotels

Looking for peace and a homely atmosphere? Choose agritourism . Numerous farms, often located on lakes, offer rooms, cottages, and delicious, home-cooked food. In the center of Czersk, you'll find the Hotel Kavka , and nearby, intimate guesthouses and holiday cottages.

Where to eat?

The town boasts restaurants serving Polish and international dishes ( Hotel Kavka ) and specializing in fish ( Złoty Karaś ). For authentic Borowia cuisine, it's best to visit agritourism farms.