Gdynia: A Guide to the City of Sea and Dreams, In the Footsteps of Modernism
- Damian Brzeski
- Jul 19
- 17 min read
Updated: Nov 25
Can modernism have the taste of a sea breeze and the color of sun-warmed concrete? In Gdynia, it definitely does.
It was here, at the confluence of the sea and the ambitious visions of the Second Polish Republic, that a unique urban phenomenon was born: Gdynia Modernism. The city, which grew from nothing in just a dozen years, became a living laboratory of avant-garde architecture.
Houses reminiscent of ocean liners, streamlined facades, and "white" facades are more than just aesthetics—they're a manifestation of modernity. This guide will take you on a journey through Gdynia's most interesting routes, where each building tells its own modernist story.
The "White City" Phenomenon – The Birth of Gdynia Modernism
Gdynia is more than just an ordinary city. It is tangible proof of the enormous ambition, incredible optimism, and drive toward modernity that gripped the Second Polish Republic, reborn after years of partition.
When you hear "city of sea and dreams," it's not just a beautiful phrase – it's an accurate description of an extraordinary phenomenon that took place on the Polish coast in the 1920s and 1930s.
What makes Gdynia so unique?
Its incredible cohesion! It's one of the few cities in all of Europe that was built almost from scratch, at a lightning pace and under the influence of a single, dominant architectural style: modernism .
This unique identity makes Gdynia appear today as a living museum of architecture – we can confidently place it alongside such icons of modernism as Tel Aviv .
Its significance extends far beyond Poland's borders. When Gdynia's historic city center was designated a Historic Monument by the President of the Republic of Poland himself, it entered the pantheon of our country's most important monuments.
The official nomination for the UNESCO World Heritage List is the final confirmation of its extraordinary, universal value.
This guide is nothing more than an invitation to join us on a journey through streets that whisper tales of national revolt, engineering genius, and a true aesthetic revolution, all encapsulated in white, glass, and concrete.
From the Sea and Dreams: The Rapid Development of the Port City
The architectural history of Gdynia is closely intertwined with its birth. After regaining independence, Poland faced what might be called a geopolitical necessity: it had to have its own, independent port.
The choice fell on a Kashubian fishing village. This decision sparked one of the most spectacular urbanization processes in all of 20th-century Europe.
"The historical falsehood that Gdynia was once a small fishing village is being repeated," explains Professor Tadeusz Stegner of the University of Gdańsk (Radio Gdańsk, 2016). "It was neither a village nor a fishing village. After World War I, Gdynia had almost 1,000 inhabitants, some of whom made their living from tourism, others from agriculture, and there were only a handful of fishermen."
What happened next—the pace of construction, the rivalry with Germany, the port cranes that attracted tourists—all this inspired admiration. Gdynia even appeared in poetry—Makuszyński wrote about it.
The dynamics of this development were astonishing. Just look at the numbers! In 1921, Gdynia had a population of just 1,268. Five years later, when it received city rights, that number had risen to 12,000! And just before the outbreak of World War II?
Gdynia already had an impressive population of 127,000 . The port flourished equally dynamically: cargo handling tonnage jumped from 404,000 tons in 1926 to over 9.2 million tons in 1938! This made Gdynia one of the most modern and largest ports on the Baltic Sea.
This unprecedented undertaking was led by truly visionary figures, headed by Deputy Prime Minister and Minister Eugeniusz Kwiatkowski.
For him, the construction of Gdynia was, alongside the Central Industrial District, a key state investment – it became a symbol of the strength and modernity of a reborn Poland.
The incredibly rapid development, driven by the state, created ideal conditions for architects.
They operated on a virtually blank slate (one might say a true tabula rasa ), free from the constraints of the historic urban fabric. This allowed for the implementation of modernist ideas on a scale never before seen in Poland.
DNA of Style: What is Gdynia Modernism?
Gdynia's modernism, though drawing heavily from pan-European avant-garde movements such as the German Bauhaus and the revolutionary ideas of Le Corbusier , managed to develop its own unique language . Its foundation was the principles of functionalism —meaning that form should follow function.
In addition, there was a pursuit of "noble simplicity", which was achieved thanks to modern construction techniques, primarily thanks to the ubiquitous use of reinforced concrete.
The characteristic aesthetic features of Gdynia modernism are:
"White City" : Prewar Gdynia, bathed in sunlight, earned the nickname "White City." Bright, gleaming facades in shades of white, beige, and light gray dominated. This wasn't just a matter of taste—it symbolized hygiene, a new beginning, and a decisive break from the dark, ornate architecture of the 19th century.
"Ship Style" (Streamline Moderne) : This is perhaps the most recognizable idiom of Gdynia architecture, a direct metaphor for the city's maritime destiny. Its hallmarks? Dynamic, rounded corners , superstructures on roofs resembling captain's bridges, round windows resembling portholes , and streamlined, horizontal balconies. This is how the famous "shiphouses" and true "transatlantic liners" were created!
Luxury Trend : After 1930, austere, purist functionalism slowly began to give way to a trend that researchers define as luxury . Architecture became more elegant and comfortable, as evidenced by the use of noble finishing materials: sandstone facings, polished terrazzo, ceramic tiles (including those characteristic "corsets"), and decorative plaster.
Although Gdynia was built on a rational, detailed urban plan, its architectural fabric is surprisingly diverse. This apparent contradiction is key to understanding the city's phenomenon. Its rapid, almost spontaneous growth made it impossible to impose a single, rigid vision.
Instead, Gdynia became an arena where various stylistic tendencies clashed and evolved – from the early influences of Art Déco, through austere functionalism, to the more opulent naval style.
This diversity is not a flaw, but rather Gdynia's greatest asset. The city is a living museum , documenting in real time the evolution of modernist architectural thought in the interwar period – a well-thought-out, planned city... with the soul of a boomtown !
Visionaries and Builders: Architects Who Shaped Gdynia
Gdynia was built by young, ambitious people, open to new ideas from across Europe. For this generation of architects, often fresh out of college, building a city from scratch was a unique opportunity to realize truly bold visions.
Their works have become a permanent part of the city's landscape, and their names have become synonymous with Gdynia modernism.
Architect's Name | Key Projects in Gdynia | Characteristics / Contribution |
Stanisław Ziołowski | BGK Housing Complex ("Bankowiec"), Konopka Tenement House | A graduate of the famous Lviv school; a true master of monumental, luxurious functionalism; he was the first president of the Gdynia branch of SARP; unfortunately, he was murdered in Kharkiv. |
Zbigniew Kupiec | The Orłowski Tenement House, the Krenski Tenement House, the Villa of Countess Łosiowa | Extremely prolific (he is said to have designed around 40 buildings in Gdynia!); known for his elegant, almost sculptural, and refined functionalist forms; he was often seen in collaboration with Tadeusz Kossak. |
Roman Piotrowski | ZUS office building (PLO) | An architect from Warsaw; he was a key representative of the streamline trend, the creator of one of the most recognizable symbols of Gdynia. |
Jerzy Müller and Stefan Reychman | Municipal Market Halls | Masters of constructivism and engineering, their work perfectly demonstrates the technical advancement and innovation of that era. |
Bohdan Damięcki and Tadeusz Sieczkowski | Polish Sailor's House | Designers of the purest and most literal example of "ship style" in all of Gdynia. If you're looking for the essence of this style, this is the building! |
Tadeusz Jędrzejewski | The Pręczkowski tenement house | One of the pioneers in the use of the "ship style"; his implementation at Kościuszko Square contributed significantly to defining the maritime aesthetic of this representative space of the city. |
How to Explore Modernist Gdynia? List of Sample Sightseeing Routes
Discovering Gdynia's architectural treasures is easier than ever! If you dream of immersing yourself in the world of Gdynia's modernism, begin your adventure at the Gdynia Modernism Center , located in the iconic building at 24 10 Lutego Street.
The second must-visit is the Municipal Tourist Information Center . There you'll find maps, tour information, and, most importantly, expert advice to help you plan the perfect visit.
Available Tour Options: Choose Your Way to Gdynia!
Whether you'd like a guided tour with an expert, or prefer to explore the city on your own, Gdynia has something for everyone!
Guided Tours : The city caters to architecture enthusiasts by regularly organizing architectural walks . Particularly popular are those included in the summer series "Holidays with Modernism" and during the annual "Weekend Architektury" festival. Taking part in such a walk, led by true local experts – such as Arkadiusz Brzęczek, author of excellent books about Gdynia's tenement houses – guarantees you'll learn not only dry facts but also a wealth of fascinating anecdotes. You'll feel like you're listening to a good story, not a textbook!
Individual Tours : For those who prefer to go at their own pace, the official "Gdynia City Guide" mobile app and free audio guides are the perfect solution . Available in Polish, English, and German, you can rent them for a deposit at the City Tourist Information Center. This is a fantastic option that allows for free, flexible exploration of the modernist trail, without rushing and with complete independence.
Gdynia Modernism Trail: Find the Perfect Route for You!
Wondering where to start? The list below is your treasure map. It shows the main routes of the Gdynia Modernism Trail, so you can easily choose something for yourself, depending on your interests and how much time you have to explore.
The Essence of Modernism – Icons of the City Centre (Walk approx. 2-3 hours)
Want to experience the true essence of Gdynia's modernism ? This tour will take you straight to the heart of the city, showcasing its most recognizable works. What's more, we're starting from a point that's a gem of modernism in itself, albeit a post-war one – Gdynia Główna train station . Let's get started!
Our journey begins at the monumental District Court Building (5 Konstytucji Square). Its dynamic, avant-garde design immediately welcomes visitors, offering a foretaste of what awaits beyond.
From here, heading straight to the Municipal Market Halls Complex (ul. Wójta Radtkego 38), we encounter a true masterpiece of Constructivism with a distinctive arched roof. Isn't it impressive?
Continuing towards the city center, we reach 10 Lutego Street. At number 24 stands the iconic ZUS Building , which today serves as, among other things, the Center for Modernism . It's hard to believe that it was bustling with official activity so recently!
Right next door, on 3 Maja Street, Gdynia's most famous ocean liner, the mighty Bankowiec, is moored. Just look at its size and rounded shape!
The route then leads us along the city's main artery, the bustling Świętojańska Street. Along the way, you'll pass a multitude of elegant townhouses, including the charming Krenski House (no. 55) and the famous, almost sculptural Orłowski House (no. 68). Pay attention to the details; they can be truly enchanting, right?
Our walk ends in the most representative space of Gdynia – Kościuszko Square .
Here, your attention will surely be drawn to the Pręczkowski House (No. 10-12), one of the first buildings in a truly naval style . From here, it's just a short step to the Southern Pier to admire the Polish Sailor's House , which closes the view. The entire essence of Gdynia in a nutshell!
Route 2: Kamienna Góra – Luxury and Avant-Garde in the Quiet Villa District (Walk approx. 1.5 hours)
Kamienna Góra is a truly unique enclave in the heart of Gdynia. This residential district, picturesquely situated on a hill, was considered the most prestigious address in the entire city during the interwar period. Just imagine the atmosphere that must have prevailed here!
Modernist architecture here took on a completely different, more intimate, even luxurious form .
Gdynia villas , often designed by the same masters who created the city's tenement houses, are characterized by extraordinary individualism and how harmoniously they are integrated into the surrounding greenery and topography of the area.
Walking along the winding streets, it is worth paying special attention to how brilliantly the architects used terraces , large glazing and pergolas to literally blur the line between the interior of the house and the garden.
Incredible, isn't it? The work of Zbigniew Kupiec is a prime example. His projects, such as the Villa of Countess Łosiowa (ul. Korzeniowskiego 7) and the two-family villa (ul. Korzeniowskiego 25-25a), are the true quintessence of elegant, residential modernism.
A trip to Kamienna Góra is not only a fascinating architectural lesson, but also a wonderful opportunity to admire breathtaking panoramas of the city and the entire Bay of Gdańsk. The perfect place for a moment of respite!
Route 3: Unknown Modernism and Port Architecture (Walk approx. 2.5 hours)
Would you like to take a look behind the scenes of the representative Śródmieście district and discover the "working" side of Gdynia modernism?
This route is perfect for you! It begins, like the main route, at the monumental District Court buildings and Market Halls , before heading straight towards the port.
Along the way, you will pass buildings situated at the junction of the city and the port, such as the Swedish Sailor's House (ul. Jana z Kolna 25), which has served as both a hotel and a consular office since the 1930s.
But that's not all! It's also worth exploring lesser-known, yet architecturally absolutely fascinating, industrial buildings, such as the Rice Mill at 2 Celna Street.
Its simple shape, enlivened by rhythmic, horizontal stripes of red brick and light plaster, is simply a perfect example of functional elegance .
The highlight of this route is the historic Marine Station (ul. Polska 1). This monumental building, once a veritable gateway through which thousands of emigrants set out into the world, now houses the excellent Emigration Museum .
This is the symbolic and literal culmination of a journey through Gdynia – a city that was, in itself, Poland's gateway to the world! What do you think, surprising?
Icons of Gdynia Modernism – Analysis of the Masters' Works
From monumental public buildings, through luxurious ocean liners for the elite, to engineering masterpieces that still serve residents today – each of these structures is a testament to vision, ambition, and extraordinary talent.
So let's get to know these pearls of Gdynia architecture, which still delight and inspire today!
ZUS office building (ul. 10 Lutego 24) – Streamlined Power of the State
Designed by Warsaw architect Roman Piotrowski and built in 1935-1936, this building is one of the purest and most dynamic examples of luxury streamline modernism .
What's so captivating about it? Its architecture is a truly masterful juxtaposition of shapes of varying heights, with a dominant, powerful, rounded corner lending the whole an incredible expressiveness. You can feel its power and dynamism, don't you?
The luxurious character is emphasized by a brilliant contrast of materials: the ground floor is clad with black granite slabs, creating a solid base for the light, sandstone facades of the upper floors.
In addition, large window surfaces provided excellent lighting for the interior, fulfilling one of the key postulates of modernism – let light fill every space!
From the very beginning, the building was a symbol of the young state's modernity and strength. Originally serving as the headquarters of the Social Insurance Institution, its walls also housed one of the most famous pre-war cafés – the renowned "Cafe Bałtyk."
After the war, the building became the headquarters of the Polish Ocean Lines (PLO), which further cemented its maritime connotations in the minds of Gdynia residents.
Today, as the seat of City Hall and the Centre for Modernism , it remains one of the most important addresses in Gdynia. It's no wonder it's so eagerly visited!
BGK Housing Complex – "Bankowiec" (ul. 3 Maja 27-31) – Transatlantyk for the Elite
The " Bankowiec ", designed by Stanisław Ziołowski and built in stages between 1935 and 1939, is undoubtedly the most powerful and iconic " Gdynia ocean liner ".
Just imagine – its huge, over 90-meter-long facade along 3 Maja Street , those streamlined corners and the superstructure on the roof stylized as a captain's bridge…
All of this fully embodies the aesthetics of naval architecture! It was the pinnacle of luxury and modernity in pre-war Gdynia.
The apartments, often exceeding 100 square meters, were bright and functional. And what about the amenities? The building was equipped with features unheard of at the time: a silent elevator, an underground garage, and even an air-raid shelter with an air filtration system!
The status of the residents was evidenced by the division into two staircases – a representative one for the tenants and their guests and a separate, more modest one for the servants.
Built for the Pension Fund of Bank Gospodarstwa Krajowego Employees, the "Bankowiec" was home to Gdynia's new elite.
The significance of the Bankowiec building to its residents is so immense that, at their initiative, a mini-museum was even created in the basement, where visitors can admire original interior furnishings that bear witness to the era. It's a truly unique place that allows you to experience history firsthand.
The Orłowski House (ul. Świętojańska 68) – Sculptural Elegance
Built in 1936 according to the design of Zbigniew Kupiec , the Orłowski Tenement House is a true masterpiece of mature functionalism .
Its strength lies in its sculptural composition, which consists of a fascinating interplay of two volumes: the lower, five-story structure with a dynamically rounded corner, and the higher, seven-story structure with simple, cubic shapes. It's impressive, isn't it?
The facades are finished with light-colored sandstone slabs, giving the building a light and elegant feel, and also making it "catch the light," standing out on Świętojańska Street. It's hard to ignore!
The history of the tenement house perfectly reflects the international and commercial nature of Gdynia.
It was built for Albin and Marianna Orłowski, citizens of the United States, and its two lower floors housed a luxury department store of the Parisian chain "Bon Marche".
It was a symbol of the city's growing ambitions and cosmopolitan character – a true bridge connecting Gdynia with the world.
The Polish Sailor's House (al. Jana Pawła II 3) – A Naval Style Manifesto
Designed by Bohdan Damięcki and Tadeusz Sieczkowski , the Polish Sailor's House (1938-1939) is the purest and most literal realization of the naval style in Gdynia.
Its composition, dominated by a central, rounded section with a superstructure reminiscent of a captain's bridge, is an uncompromising manifestation of the city's maritime identity. Just looking at it makes you want to set sail!
This building, however, is also a poignant symbol of Gdynia's shattered dream. It was conceived as a grand, representative center for Polish sailing, with club rooms and an indoor swimming pool.
Unfortunately, its construction was completed just before the outbreak of World War II, meaning it never fully fulfilled its original, ambitious purpose. The war brutally interrupted this plan.
Its current purpose – as the seat of the Faculty of Navigation of the Maritime University – is a practical, but less romantic echo of that great, unrealized vision.
This gives his story an additional, melancholic dimension, making it even more intriguing.
Municipal Market Halls (ul. Wójta Radtkego 38) – Department of Constructivism
The design by Jerzy Müller and Stefan Reychman from 1935-1938 is a true pearl of Polish constructivism – a work in which function and engineering achieved art form.
Unlike streamlined tenement buildings, the strength of the Hala Targowe lies in the logic and boldness of their construction. Their most distinctive feature is the main fruit and vegetable hall, whose roof is supported by impressive, parabolic steel girders.
This was an innovative solution! It allowed the creation of a vast, support-free space, perfectly illuminated by glazed gable walls and skylights. A true feat of engineering!
The halls were a pragmatic response to one of the biggest challenges facing the dynamically growing city – the need to ensure food supplies for thousands of new residents.
The fact that they still successfully fulfill their original function today, being one of Gdynia's favorite shopping destinations, is the ultimate proof of the genius and timelessness of the design.
So, if you want to see real functionality in action, you know where to go!
Marine Station (ul. Polska 1) – Gateway to the World
Built in 1932-1933 according to the design of Dyckerhoff & Widmann, the Marine Station was the symbolic and literal gateway of the Second Polish Republic to the world .
Its monumental, representative architecture combined modernism with classical elements, referring to the Art Déco style, as exemplified by the bas-reliefs of eagles that once decorated the façade.
This was a key hub for passenger traffic, especially emigration, serving legendary Polish ocean liners. Imagine the crowds, the farewells, the hopes!
The building's history is a microcosm of Gdynia's fate. Damaged during Allied air raids during the war, it gradually declined in importance after 1945, ultimately becoming an office building and warehouse.
But fortunately, that's not the end of the story! Its spectacular 21st-century revitalization and transformation into the Emigration Museum is one of Poland's finest examples of successful adaptation of modernist heritage.
Not only has it been restored to its former architectural glory, but it has been given a new, extremely important function that touchingly refers to its original purpose.
Isn't this the perfect culmination of the story about Gdynia's icons of modernism?
The Heritage and Future of Modernist Gdynia
Now that we have walked together through the history of Gdynia modernism and admired its most iconic works, it is time to consider the future.
Because Gdynia is not only a living museum, but also a city that is constantly evolving, and its modernist heritage is facing new challenges.
How is something born from a burst of ambition faring in the 21st century and how is it preparing for the centuries to come? Let's find out!
Gdynia on the UNESCO List: Fight for Recognition
The legacy of Gdynia's modernism enjoys the highest recognition today, and deservedly so! The inclusion of the modernist downtown area on the list of Historic Monuments has placed it among the elite group of Poland's most important historical monuments. That's something, isn't it? But this isn't the end of the efforts to achieve international recognition.
The process of inscribing the city onto the UNESCO World Heritage List is ongoing. The argument is compelling: it relies on the idea of Gdynia's "outstanding universal value" as a model example of building a modern city and society from scratch in the interwar period.
In this context, history comes full circle. Recall: in the 1930s, modernist architecture was a tool of state propaganda, a way to present Poland as a modern and dynamic country.
Today, in the 21st century, the same narrative of building a city for a new society is becoming the basis for recognizing Gdynia as a heritage of global significance.
It's amazing how a project that started as a political manifestation has matured into a priceless cultural asset!
Living Modernism: Contemporary Challenges and Inspirations
Protecting Gdynia's heritage is a unique task, as it is still alive and intensively used. And that's precisely the challenge!
Conservators and building owners must reconcile the requirements of protecting historic buildings with the needs of modern life – just think about such mundane matters as thermal modernisation of facades.
Fortunately, there is no shortage of positive examples of revitalization.
Remember the Maritime Station ? Its spectacular conversion into the Emigration Museum was one such success. Or the meticulous restoration of a modernist villa on Ejsmonda Street and its transformation into the boutique hotel "Willa Wincent"?
Examples like these show that it is possible to give historic buildings new life while respecting their original spirit.
The legacy of modernism isn't just a showpiece in Gdynia – it continues to inspire contemporary architects, creating a unique dialogue between the past and the present and ensuring the city's architectural cohesion. It's truly something worth seeing!
Glossary of Terms and Bibliography
Remember all those interesting terms that appeared throughout our guide? We've gathered them in one place for you to easily refer back to.
And if you feel like you need more, you'll also find recommended reading and resources here that will allow you to delve even deeper into the world of Gdynia modernism.
Glossary:
Functionalism: A movement in modernist architecture that advocated that a building's form should be directly related to its intended function. That is, think first about its purpose, then its appearance!
Constructivism: An architectural movement that emphasized the logic and beauty of a building's structure, often leaving it visible. It's what's inside that counts!
Streamline Moderne: A form of modernism inspired by the aerodynamics and forms of modern transportation (ships, trains, airplanes). Characterized by streamlined shapes and horizontal lines – you literally feel like the building is floating!
Art Déco: A decorative style popular in the 1920s and 1930s, characterized by geometric design, symmetry, and a pursuit of luxury. In Gdynia, it was particularly evident in early designs and subtle details.
Reinforced concrete: Concrete reinforced with steel bars. This was a key construction material of modernism, allowing for the creation of bold, lightweight forms. A true revolution!
Terrazzo: A refined plaster or floor made from a mixture of cement, water, and crushed stone. After drying, it is sanded and polished to a high gloss – elegant and durable.
Corsets: Small ceramic tiles with a distinctive corset-like shape. They were popular for floor and facade finishes, adding charm and… grace!
Recommended Literature on Gdynia Modernism:
If this guide has just whetted your appetite for Gdynia knowledge, these titles are perfect!
Narrative Story: Grzegorz Piątek, The Promised Gdynia: City, Modernism, Modernization 1920-1939 . A fascinating, multi-layered story about the city's construction, its political, social, and architectural dimensions. You simply must read it!
Building biographies: Arkadiusz Brzęczek's "Secrets of Gdynia Tenement Houses" series . These collections of historical reports reveal the extraordinary stories of individual buildings and their inhabitants. Richly illustrated with archival materials, you'll feel like you're reading a crime novel, but about buildings!
Academic analysis: Robert Hirsch, Protection and Conservation of Gdynia's Historic Modernist Architecture , and the volumes from the conference series Modernism in Europe – Modernism in Gdynia . These publications are for those who wish to deepen their knowledge of the technical and conservation aspects of Gdynia's heritage. A real treat for analysts!
Online resource: The official website of the Gdynia Modernism Trail, modernizmgdyni.pl . It's the best source of up-to-date information about routes, events, and individual sites. It's always worth checking out!
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