Checkered Land Swołowo: Cultural Heritage of Pomerania
- Damian Brzeski
- 5 hours ago
- 12 min read
Did you know that there is a village in Pomerania where the latticework is not only an architectural pattern, but a symbol of the entire heritage? Swołowo – the heart of the Land of Plaids – is a place where the past does not gather dust in museum display cases, but lives in courtyards, attics and tiled stoves.
Immerse yourself in the story of a region where every entablature has its own story, and folk culture combines with modern tourism. Discover the heritage that still inspires – and see why Pomerania wears the tartan with pride.
Swołowo – the heart of the Checkered Land
There is a place in Pomerania where history still has a roof of beams and walls of stories – this is the Checkered Land , and its beating heart is Swołowo .
The name "Checkered Land" appeared for the first time in 1995, during an exhibition of photographs by architect E. Szalewska.
It captured the beauty of the historic frame architecture that has become a showcase for the region. The exhibition had a domino effect – people began to see the value of these houses, renovate them and admire them again.
In time, the village of Swołowo was considered the most important point on the map. Swołowo – the capital of the region – is not a slogan, but a reality: about 70 historic buildings , which create a living catalog of half-timbered architecture. It is not without reason that Swołowo is said to be a checkered region .
And the entire Checkered Land ? It stretches from Darłowo to Łeba , along the Baltic Sea. It is about 80 km long and up to 60 km wide – and you will find monuments not only in the center, but also further afield, e.g. in Paproty or Darskowo.
In the whole region, about 1,500 frame buildings have survived . Apart from Swołowo, the following stand out: Stary Jarosław (69), Bierkowo (52), Krzemienica (51), Starkowo (50). This is proof that tradition can go hand in hand with modernity.
The church in Swołowo as the central point of the village
In the very centre of the oval layout of Swołowo stands an inconspicuous but extremely important building – the Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary . It is this church that complements the village space, being its spiritual and architectural point of reference.
The first mentions of the village appeared at the beginning of the 13th century. At that time, the village of Swołowo fell into the hands of the Hospitallers – a knightly order that for almost 200 years governed this land from nearby Sławno.
The church in Swołowo itself was built at the turn of the 14th and 15th centuries. Built of brick, it has preserved Gothic elements, such as slender windows and vaults. Inside, a real gem awaits you – original medieval galleries that have survived for hundreds of years.
Interestingly, the silhouette of the temple resembles churches that can be found in Denmark or southern Sweden.
This is no coincidence – it shows the architectural influences that reached Pomerania. Evidence that even small Swołowo was once part of a larger, Baltic puzzle.
The role of the PHARE TOURIN II programme in revitalisation
In 1997, Swołowo was included in the PHARE TOURIN II program – a pilot program supporting rural tourism. The goal was not only renovation, but also the creation of an attractive agritourism base and promotion of heritage.
As part of the project:
the oval square space was renovated,
the pond and parking lot were developed,
educational boards were installed at historic farmsteads ,
training courses on renovation were organized,
building materials were purchased for residents,
promotional materials about the village were published.
As a result , the village of Swołowo was recognized as the capital of the Checkered Land . Support came from various sources: local governments, the province and the ministry.
The program acted as a catalyst – it combined concern for tradition with a new economic impulse. It proved that investments in monuments can also bring intangible benefits : a stronger identity and greater recognition of the region.
Timber frame construction and timber frame technology
What immediately catches the eye in the Checkered Land is its "checkered" charm. The effect? Half-timbered construction , or half-timbered construction - black tarred beams and whitened fillings creating a characteristic checkered pattern.
This style dominated Pomerania in the 18th and 19th centuries. It was based on a combination of wooden beams (pine or oak), arranged vertically and horizontally, without the use of metal - only with wooden tenons and nails.
The walls were reinforced with braces, and the wood was planed and impregnated, often with colored preparations.
The fillings between the beams changed over time. First, clay with heather was used, then straw and clay with lime, and in newer buildings – bricks (unfired or fired). Today, clay with reeds is also used.
The load-bearing elements of the structure are:
ground beam – a beam at the foundation,
cap – the upper beam of the wall,
columns – connected to the ground beam and the top plate,
beams and struts – strengthening the wall and protecting against wind.
The wattle and daub wall is often confused . The difference? In the wattle and daub wall, bricks are used, while in the wattle and daub – clay fillings. The name "wattle and daub" itself comes from horizontal wooden beams.
Houses in this style had small windows and doors, roofs covered with thatch, shingles or tiles, and bases made of brick or stone. This type of construction is not only a style - it is a hallmark of Pomerania and the pride of the Checkered Land .
Checkered houses and wide-fronted pearls of Pomerania
They are commonly referred to as "checkered houses" - of course, we mean the half-timbered buildings that give the Checkered Land its unique character.
The most common type was the wide-fronted house – rectangular, usually 10–16 m long, two-storey, with a hipped roof.
The largest buildings resembled manor houses – the ground floor was 11 x 20 m and the area was up to 600 m²! This only confirms how solid and versatile the half-timbered technique was.
You can find such buildings in Swołowo , Bruskowo Wielkie, Mały, Pęplin and Możdżanowo. There are also large clusters in Bierkowo, Starkowo and Krzemienica. Roofs? Once covered with straw and reeds, later increasingly with ceramic roof tiles.
Interiors? The classics have one entrance from the yard, behind it a wide hallway and two large rooms. In more elaborate versions: three rooms along the entire width - a hallway in the middle, a room and a chamber on the sides. Two-bay houses also appeared, with an asymmetrical layout and a central fire system.
Half-timbered churches and half-timbered buildings
The half-timbered (i.e. half-timbered) technique was used not only in houses, but also in the construction of churches, manors and public buildings. In Pomerania we can find many examples of such temples, including in Ciechocin, Cierzno, Czarne, Stegna or Objazda – where one of the oldest half-timbered churches in the region stands.
Characteristic features? Simple, rectangular plan, no internal divisions, wooden music galleries supported by pillars.
They were most often built of oak, in a regular grid pattern, with fields filled with wood, clay or brick. Oriented on the east-west axis, with a high, gable roof.
Not all of them had towers – those that did, were often added or connected by a connector. Their frame structure was often entirely half-timbered, with braces and brick filling. The foundations were made of stones, and the plinths and fillings were often plastered – inside and out.
The fact that churches were built using this technique is evidence of its durability and the trust placed in it. These temples are not only places of worship – they are also landmarks in the landscape and important centers of social life. They are still carriers of the regional identity of Pomerania.
Spatial and cultural heritage of the region
A village is not only buildings and fields – it is also the rhythm of space, the history hidden in the layout of roads and squares, the way in which inhabitants have organised their lives for generations.
It is here that unique layouts have been preserved, such as ovals – almost unchanged since the Middle Ages, and yet still relevant.
The oval and spatial layout of the Pomeranian village
Owalnica is a medieval type of square village, distinguished by its defensive layout. The central square takes the form of an oval or spindle, usually with a pond or well in the middle. Two roads lead to the interior – once closed by gates at night.
This model of village developed on the Slavic-Germanic border and occurs, among others, in the Silesian Upland, the Pomeranian Lake District and the Wielkopolska Lowland.
Swołowo is a textbook example of an oval in Pomerania. Its layout has remained almost unchanged since the Middle Ages. Historic farmsteads are located on the outside of the oval, which emphasizes the original, defensive character of this form.
That such an arrangement has survived for hundreds of years speaks volumes about its functionality. In the Checkered Land, ovals have not only survived, but have become an important element of local identity. Swołowo fits perfectly into this story – durable, legible, beautiful.
The Smoky Cottage and Other Examples of Folk Architecture
A smoke cottage , also called a hen cottage or a henhouse , is a classic of the old village – a house without a chimney. The fire burned in the hearth inside, and the smoke escaped through a hole in the roof. In Swołowo, people used to live like that too – the smoke rose to the ceiling, singeing the ceiling.
A traditional Pomeranian cottage usually had three rooms: a central hall , on one side a black room with a stove and a fireplace, on the other a white room – clean, often representative.
In the area around Żuławy Wiślane, Dutch influences dominated. A good example is Zagroda Chrystkowo no. 21 , where all parts – residential, farm and barn – were located under one roof.
In addition, there are the well-known wide-fronted houses – two-storey, with a hipped roof and a characteristic layout with a wide hallway leading to large rooms. All these forms show how diverse and practical the folk architecture of Pomerania can be.
Pomeranian sheep as an element of economic tradition
Pomeranian sheep are tough guys – healthy, hardy, undemanding. They make good use of pastures and food, and lambs reach slaughter weight after only six months. They are resistant to the local climate, which is why they have been part of the rhythm of life in the Pomeranian countryside for centuries.
Meat from sheep – for example, lamb leg with garlic – has made it onto the List of Traditional Products , which speaks for itself. Kefir, yogurt, butter, ghee and even ice cream are made from sheep's milk.
Sheep (and Pomeranian goose) breeding is not just economics – it is culture .
This is best demonstrated by the festival “On St. Martin’s Day, the best Pomeranian goose”, which celebrates local culinary traditions.
The inclusion of native breeds in the story of the heritage of Kraina w kratę shows that history is not only about houses and roads, but also about tastes, customs and everyday life. Because culture is also what ends up on our plate.
Museum of Pomeranian Folk Culture in Swołowo
In the heart of the Checkered Land there is a unique place – the Museum of Pomeranian Folk Culture. It is not only a branch of the Museum of Central Pomerania in Słupsk, but also a space where history truly comes alive.
In Swołowo, the past and present meet every day, and tradition is a part of everyday life. See how the museum works, which offers the smell of freshly baked bread and the sound of looms instead of dust.
History and Mission
The museum was established in 2008 on the initiative of the Ethnography Department. Its heart is the Albrecht Museum Farm , but it currently includes as many as 16 revitalized objects spread over three farmsteads.
The mission of the facility is to show the life of a Pomeranian peasant from a century ago – from home furnishings to agricultural tools, photographs and everyday objects. This is not a museum to be viewed through glass – here you can enter, touch and feel the atmosphere of an old village.
Education and workshops
The museum's educational offer is truly broad and aimed at everyone - from preschoolers to adults. The program includes:
Christmas workshops (Easter eggs, gingerbread, decorations),
farm activities (threshing grain, cooking on a tiled stove, picking herbs, brewing beer),
craft demonstrations (weaving, flax stretching),
seasonal attractions (sleigh rides, horse-drawn carriage rides, bonfires).
Outdoor events and daily activities transform this place into a living story about the culture of Pomerania .
Cooperation and network of museums
The Museum in Swołowo cooperates with the Museum of the Slovinian Village in Kluki – both are part of the Museum of Central Pomerania. They are connected not only by a common board, but also by the exchange of experiences, joint events and the development of interactive education. This approach creates a coherent regional network of heritage.
The Museum of Pomeranian Folk Culture is more than just a collection of exhibits. It is a place where people meet history – live, without rushing, with commitment. Drop in, see, listen, touch – and feel how the Pomeranian tradition lives.
Albrecht's Farm - an example of a Pomeranian peasant farmstead
Imagine a place where time has stopped and every building, tool and animal tells its own story. This is exactly what Albrecht's Farm is like - the living heart of the Pomeranian Folk Culture Museum , where the everyday life of a 19th-century farm comes alive again.
Farmstead No. 8 belonged to the Albrecht family for almost 300 years. After the war, it passed into the hands of settlers, and since 2002 it has been under the care of a museum.
This is where it all started – today it is a model example of a four-sided farmstead of a wealthy Pomeranian peasant.
The residential building is over 150 years old. Inside you will find, among other things, a kitchen with a tiled stove, a bedroom, a pantry, a living room and a special part for seniors – Altenteil.
Everything is decorated as it was in the past – with the help of old photos, memories and local memorabilia. Each room has its own story, and the walls are decorated with stencil patterns, just like in the old days.
Barn and cowshed – how did it work?
The barn from 1858 houses original machinery: ploughs, chopper, winnowing machines. The barn is a place for horses, sheep and goats – the lower part is for animals, and the upper part is for exhibitions:
Brewing in Swołowo – with home-made beer,
Pomeranian Cuisine – full of forgotten equipment and wooden gingerbread molds .
What else will you find?
A well with a stone casing,
Henhouse with green-legged partridges,
An inn serving goose dishes,
Garden with flowers, vegetables and an ethnic playground,
Pasture where horses and sheep graze.
And that's not all!
Albrecht's Farm is just the beginning. Nearby you will find:
Farmstead No. 14 with a forge and blacksmith shows,
Farmstead No. 15 with workshops and exhibitions,
Bread house, former guard house and much more.
Creative Initiatives Farm
Here, history meets art. Art workshops, concerts, meetings with herbalists and painters take place in a stylish cottage with a soul. In 2023, this place was hailed as one of the "Wonders of Poland" - and we are not surprised!
Albrecht's Farm is not just an open-air museum. It is a journey through time, an experience with all the senses and a story about what life was like in the Pomeranian countryside - full of work, tastes, smells and community. Come and see for yourself!
Tourism and events in the Checkered Land
In the Checkered Land, not only the houses have checkered patterns – the rich tourist and cultural offer also has its own unique pattern.
Cycle trails, festivals and artistic havens create a dynamic mosaic of activities that tempt nature lovers, gourmets and handicraft enthusiasts alike.
Cycle routes and tourist infrastructure
The Checkered Land is a paradise for lovers of active recreation. Several picturesque cycling trails run through the region:
The USBS trail (Ustka – Słupsk – Bytów – Sominy) is 86 km long, with the Ustka–Słupsk section (30 km) leading through the towns of the Checkered Land: Charnowo, Strzelino, Bruskowo Wielkie. You can get from Bruskowo Wielkie to Swołowo along the blue trail.
The International Cycling Route R-10 (Hanseatic Cycling Route) runs along the Baltic Sea through Jarosławiec, Ustka, Gardna Wielka, Smołdzino and Kluki. Part of the route between Ustka and Rowy is the so-called "Rolled Tracks Route" - led along a former railway embankment.
Nature trail “In the Moszczeniczka River Valley” – two loops: red (cycling) and blue (hiking), with routes through Bierkowo, Bruskowo Wielkie and Swołowo.
Festival "The best Pomeranian goose for St. Martin's Day"
One of the most recognizable events in the region. Every year, in November, thousands of guests come to Swołowo to celebrate and taste regional goose dishes. The program includes:
Feasts, music and dancing
Tastings and sale of goose dishes: from black pudding to goose dumplings
Handicraft and local products fair
Demonstrations of crafts and old cuisine in the museum grounds
Creative Initiatives Farm – culture and art
This is a place for those looking for inspiration. The farmstead combines history with modernity:
Artistic workshops, concerts, meetings with artists
Workshops, guest rooms, relaxation areas
Awarded the title of "Miracle of Poland" in 2023
The Checkered Land is not only about architecture and history, but also a place of living culture, where everyone will find something for themselves – on a bike, at a table, with a camera or chisel in hand.
The Checkered Land – a heritage with a future
The Checkered Land, with Swołowo as the heart of the region, is not only picturesque villages and checkered houses. It is the living heritage of Pomerania – a unique combination of history, architecture and tradition that has survived for centuries.
The oval layout of the village and the half-timbered buildings create a unique cultural landscape, and the unique construction technique shows the skill and ingenuity of the old craftsmen.
The Museum of Pomeranian Folk Culture in Swołowo not only protects this legacy, but also revives it – through workshops, festivals and education.
Thanks to programs such as PHARE TOURIN II, the region has gained not only new life, but also an attractive tourist brand. Goose for St. Martin, handicrafts, traditional crafts - all this attracts thousands of visitors here.
The Checkered Land shows that heritage is not only the past – it is also the future. And when properly cared for, it can be vibrant and inspire future generations.
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